DENÍK Z EXKURZE DO HELSINEK, STOCKHOLMU A TURKU - přikládám část seminární práce jen jako zajimavost co ještě se ve Skandinávii může vidět

1 Introduction

As a student of Scandinavian Studies program held at the University of Oulu, I have participated in an excursion trip concerning Scandinavian art and architecture. The trip was arranged during mid October and the capitals of Finland and Sweden were planned to visit. In addition to these two, Turku, the old capital of Finland was also scheduled for a visit. The order of the trip was following: two days in Helsinki, night sea transport to Stockholm, two days in Stockholm and one more way by a night ferry back to Finland, this time to Turku. All together 5 active days filled with traveling, learning, sightseeing, culture and last but not least, by fun. Our student’s group was accompanied by teachers Petri, Laura and Sanna, who couldn’t be missing. This work is supposed to be a small logbook of our experience and knowledge gained during the course where described facts are mixed with my own views and feelings.

2 Day one – Helsinki for the first time

We are arriving to Helsinki relatively early still a little bit tired from the night train going directly between Oulu and Helsinki. However, sleeping in cabins was fine and sufficiently long so after a short rest and eating breakfast we could set of to discover marvels of the capital.

2.1 HELSINKI AND ITS ART COUNTY SIDE

Firstly, before visiting the centre of Helsinki, we are going to the country side by a chartered bus. The objects of our interest are two places of Finish wide-known artists.

The first stop was made at Hvitträsk (Fig. 1), house of three architects Saarinen, Gesellius and Lindgren. They worked mainly in the firs half of 20^th century during times when Finland was becoming an independent state and needed to have own identity, face. The style they were designing in is called National Romantic Style and many features of Finnish habits, folk-memories and nature are implemented in it. The trio made their breakthrough at the Paris World Exhibition in Paris 1900 by projecting the Finnish pavilion. The pavilion was built in National Romantic Style decorated with mural painting of another well-known revivalist artist, Gallén-Kallela. The plans of Hvitträsk (white lake) building were drawn up in 1901 and the construction took place from 1902 to 1903. Each architect designed his own house and the most common materials used were wooden logs and Scandinavian granite. Every piece of the asymmetric house was well-considered and as money was not an issue, proper job of every part was done. Needless to say, Hvitträsk is a very nice and peaceful place even nowadays and belongs to the most precious heritages of Finland. The trio of architect designed over 70 building throughout Finland and many of them can be found in the capital, e.g., the National Museum, the main Railway Station and many others. I must yet add a huge urban plan for Helsinki was made by them. Nevertheless, from my point of view, luckily has never come true.

The other stop was made nearby the Tuusulanjärvi at a small cape jutting out to a lake. The place itself pretends to be very pleasant and it likely was one of the reasons why Pekka Halonen, among with many other artists, chose it. Pekka Halonen brought fame to National Romanticism in the field of painting, displaying ordinary everyday life. Pekka was born in 1965 to a farm family. During his studies he traveled through many European countries, in several of them even studied for a few years. He had a little studio in Helsinki, but he did not feel comfortable there. That probably was an impulse why he and his wife moved to Tuusula, where a large log house was built by them. The house really stands at a very wonderful place and reminds me rather of a mountain chalet than a family house. The interior is illuminated through large windows facing the lake, letting light go inside and creating an atmosphere of a nice place. All walls have orange-reddish shade so there is no problem to imagine how life could take place in here. Simply put a nice place, not far away from places I am familiar with.

2.2 FINNISH CONTEMPORARY ART AND THE NIGHT WALK

Having arrived from the county side we accommodated at the harbor and went through the city to visit Finnish Contemporary Art Museum. The exposition was not really my “piece of cake” and except a small number of items I did not find anything to be fantastic. On the other hand, the building itself was a masterpiece and despite a wide dispute about location and shape I must say it is an adorable construction.

The evening is free so after a collective decision we set out to the Sibelius monument (Fig. 2) dedicated to the greatest Finnish composer ever, Jean Sibelius. The monument is quite large and is supposed to evocate feeling of being in a forest. However, it remanded me more of a huge organ than forest. Nevertheless, it is still very impressive and imposing. Then we moved to the Olympic Stadium with its tall tower and finally end up in a Czech pub with Czech beer.

3 Day two – Helsinki from inside

Today, a whole-day wandering through and through Helsinki has been scheduled: starting at the main square, continuing with nearby magnificent buildings and ending at the House of Parliament or Finlandia Hall.

3.1 THE SENATE SQUARE AND ITS SURROUNDING

We are waking up at a hostel and after breakfast hurry up to the Senate Square; spot of our morning’s interest. The square is of a quadratic shape having statue of Alexander II in the middle. The perimeter is dominated by fore large buildings; Helsinki Cathedral (Fig. 3), the Government Palace, the main building of the University of Helsinki and the National Library of Finland. Responsible architects who designed this part of the city are German architect C.J.L. Engel and his colleague J.A.Ehrenstörm of Swedes origin. They were drawing up the plans from year 1822 to 1852 in neoclassical architecture. The Senate Square is together with the Railway Station a natural center of Helsinki nowadays and form very unique and cohesive core of the town.

Firstly, we are going to the main building of the University of Helsinki where we are welcomed by three stairs symbolizing the importance of knowledge. Then we continued to the Auditorium, the first magnificent and luxury room in the history of Helsinki. Unfortunately, the construction was damaged during the WWII and many parts had do be replaced by new ones. Next steps point to the National Library of Finland. Here, many precious and unique books and volumes can be found. The building itself is a wonderful piece of art and consists of two different architectural styles. After the library we found ourselves in the Helsinki Cathedral. It is the second main Finnish Evangelical Lutheran church in Finland as the high majority of believers belong to the Evangelical Lutheran Church. The interior is not so well decorated like in Catholic churches, which seems to me more appropriate compared to Catholic ones. Besides a magnificent and beautiful organ located at a usual place there is the world’s largest unbroken collection of zinc statues of the Twelve Apostles on the roof.

Next steps led a bit further out of the square. We went down the Snellmanink Street passing an old bank and then we hit The National Archives of Finland with its wonderful neoclassical facade. Inside, wide volumes which I would never like to read can be found. Afterwards, we yet managed to pass around the House of Nobles built in neogothic style in 1916.

3.2 HISTORY OF HELSINKI

After having walked around all above mentioned sights, a visit of Helsinki City Museum was planned. Here, we were told about history of Helsinki and its two main stages; Original Helsinki was founded several kilometers north out of present location. However, due to very shallow waters in the upper bay, it was moved southwards to today’s position. Later on in 1600s the town square, town hall, a church and a cemetery were located where the Senate Square can be found today. In 1812 the Russian Tsar proclaimed Helsinki the capital of the autonomous Grand Duchy of Finland. The Tsar ordered a new monumental city to be drawn up in order to keep up with the city’s important new role. Right now we are going to explore the third stage of Helsinki’s history, because the Parliament house is just behind the corner.

3.3 PARLIAMENT HOUSE AND ALVAR AALTO ON THE STAGE

When Finland’s unicameral Parliament was established in 1906-07, a session hall was needed to accommodate the entire 200-member Parliament. The Parliament house was designed by J.S. Sirén in the classic style decorated by reddish granite used on outer facade. In the frontage, fourteen high columns were integrated so the building seems to be very monumental as well as muscular. Our group was allowed to come in and see some part of interior, e.g., Hall of State, marble staircase and first of all the Session Hall. Even though we had a guide and his comments were perfectly oriented, we were overwhelmed by the amount of information. On the way back we passed the National Museum of Finland with a high tower or a rocky bear, symbol of Finland, sitting at the front steps. The museum was designed by Saarinen as well as the Railway Station (Fig. 4). They both are, how else, proposed in National Romantic Style with its common features such as muscular and heavy appearance.

Like a cheery on a cake, a production of Alvar Aalto stayed at the end. It is located just opposite to the National Museum and it shouts by its white color: Finlandia Hall. The final drawing was made in year 1962 and the construction was completed ten years later and serves for concerts and meetings in these days. Unfortunately, the Finlandia Hall is the only part of intended “White Style” line of buildings along the Töölönlahti Bay. Nevertheless, I am rather a supporter of very various style found at one area than a fan of architectural homogeneity and megalomania. That is maybe why I feel more comfortable in every little old medieval town in Italy or Spain than in any “relatively newly” built city.

Our time in Helsinki is over and there is no more time then just to board on a ferry, wave at Kustaanmiekka fortification from height of the ship and go for a prepaid diner. See you in Stockholm tomorrow morning.

4 Day three – center of Stockholm

Next two days we are spending in Stockholm, the capital of Sweden. Stockholm has been the political and economic centre of Sweden since 13th century and today is the largest municipality of the county with a population of roughly 800,000. The metropolitan area of Stockholm has about one million citizens more. We are arriving early in the morning and after checking in we are ready to set out to the downtown.

4.1 CITY HALL

At the beginning of our stay in Stockholm, we are directed to the centre of city’s government, to red-bricken City Hall constructed in years 1911-1923. A guided tour is provided for us so we can start. First of all we are getting familiar with a beautiful interior of the Blue Hall, the largest room in the building. The hall was supposed to be painted in blue color; however, the red bricks looked surprisingly good which led the architects to keep it without a parget. The ceiling without columns creates very open and utilizable space. There is also a huge organ made of 10,000 pipes, hanging just under the ceiling. Then we continue to the Parliament Hall where seats for representatives of the city are located. When we look up at the ceiling like an upside down boat can be seen ornate with wonderful paintings. In next few minutes we find ourselves in a basement of a tower which is just a meter higher than a Copenhagen’s one and through French Hall we are getting to the Golden Hall. The description “golden” is based on real used of gold on the walls. As we are leaving City Hall we are walking around it for a while and an old myth about a trunk is being narrated.

4.2 THE OLD CITY: GAMLA STAN

On the way to Gamla Stan we passed through Riddarholmen Island with its tall Riddarholmen church ended by a metal tower. The House of Nobel from architect Jean De Laval is on the way too. The house is richly ornate as the aristocracy became powerful during the Thirty Years Old War. Medieval Old City warmly welcomes us and finally, I can feel like in a true city; narrow streets, coffee shops with sittings outside, drying clothes hanging on balconies and houses sticking on each other resembling a deep love. Stortorget, a former market square is on our tour and Petri is telling us a story how Danish king with his company were murdered right here (Fig. 5). Before visiting the Royal Palace we are making one more rest in Stockholm Cathedral with its late Gothic interior. A wooden sculpture of St. Göran and the Dragon is displayed here.

4.3 THE ROYAL PALACE AND MUSEM

As early as 1697 an old fortress was destroyed by a fire in the Old Town and a new royal palace was erected afterwards. The current palace was designed in a baroque style by architect Nicodemus Tessin the Youngest and it has been serving for royal purposes since that year. During our staying here we could see the Changing of the Guard and did a short walk around the palace. A prepared visit of the Royal Museum was arranged later on and we were allowed to take a glance at relicts of great characters of Sweden history, e.g., Gustav Vasa, Charles XII, Gustav III etc. The most interesting artefacts for me were armour, horses’ ceremonial clothing and old authentic festive carriages.

We set of to the Vasa museum afterwards, but as it was closed I did a bit longer evening walking tour stopping at places as Sergels Torg square, the Parliament Palace or the Old Town. As late as 7 p.m. we came back to our excellent houseboat getting ready to go out to see night Stockholm.

5 Day four – beyond Stockholm

The sleep was sufficient enough and our round view from a cabin at morning’s Stockholm encouraged us. So did breakfast and we are ready to go to Drottningholm Palace, a current residence of royal family.

5.1 DROTTNINGHOLM PALACE

Drottningholm Estate, draperied in abundant hardwood trees and parks, contains luxurious Drottningholm Palace which has been the official residence of the royal family since 1981. The magnificent palace, which construction began in 1622, is almost entirely in baroque style and is located not far from the center, just about 30 minutes by subway and bus. We are arriving in the morning and unpleasant news is waiting for us; the exposition in entrails of the palace is closed down due to reconstruction. Even though no worries, the Drottningholm Estate has still enough to offer. For instance, there is a 250 years old rococo theater which is proudly registered on UNESCO’s World Heritage list (Fig. 6). We are guided through the Court Theater and adore well-advised machinery system or the stage, consisting of six wings perfectly creating illusion of deepness. Admiration has no end and we marvel at vast gardens, parks and lakes’ system spreading all around. After a while, we are approaching to the Chinese Pavilion, a love gift to Queen. There is also a very interesting food-transporter in the Confidence situated nearby the pavilion. The transporter serves the royal family sitting upstairs while a several chefs work downstairs putting done food on shelves and a table which are consequently elevate upstairs to the dining room. Very clever, I would like to have it at my dormitory :)

5.2 VASA MUSEUM

As the time is running out, our very last visit is in front of us winding up its canvas even though it will never be put out sea again. Yes, the last stop leaded to the Vasa Museum built to hold the royal ship Vasa, the world’s only example of a completely equipped 17^th century warship. The ship is docked at a dry dockyard and simply put, it is a huge keel. When on service, about 450 members of crew could be accommodated and roughly 65 cannons prepared to launch toward all points of the compass. Unfortunately or fortunately, difficult to say, the royal pride sank during its maiden voyage in the port of Stockholm in 1628. The museum itself is a well done piece of art as well as three ship's mast jutting out of a roof of the museum. There are also many informative displays to be found among the exposition, e.g., cross-section view at a model of the ship, a real part of interior, reconstructions of a battle against Poland or successful salvage and restoration of Vasa. One and half hour was not enough, but we had to go on, the night ferry to Turku was leaving soon. Hopefully it will not have the same fate like Vasa had.

6 Day five – Turku

The old capital, the oldest town of Finland or, if you want, a city on a mouth of the Aura river welcomes us quiet soon at dawn. So it must be Turku. We boarded a chartered bus and after a short sightseeing from a deck of the bus we stopped nearby the Turku Cathedral located on Unikanhare Hill. The church is late Gothic, built up of red bricks and we saw both, exterior and interior.

After a while we got to Luostarinmäki, on old handicrafts settlement which miraculously escape the Great Fire of Turku devastated most of the town in 1827. Our enthusiastic guide showed us all interesting object placed all round and explained how livelihood used to look like there.

Our final object to visit was Turku Caste, an old medieval fortification. The history of Turku Castle stretches back to the 1280s and its importance is, and predominantly was, more than countywide. We walked the castle through and through and a guide was provided as well as at many places we had visited so far. We were told, for example, that despite antiquity of the building, all ceiling and floors had to be reconstructed after the WWII because the profound bombing had fatal consequences.

Another small turn followed after the visit of the Castle and as midday was getting near, the time of the trip was getting over. Our group went beck to Oulu while I took a train to Helsinki to spend there a few more days.

7 Conclusions

At the end, I would shortly like to thank to all accomplices. Due to this trip, I have obtained perfect and unique experiences and knowledge of Scandinavian countries. Personally, I see a big advantage in guided visits and a possibility that teachers educated in fields as architecture and art were with us.

Thanks to all.